Tuesday, May 10, 2016

5 Plants You Can Grow in Buckets

Grow Your Own Organic Garden, Even if You Don’t Have a Yard!

Container gardening is a great solution for those who have limited space for a traditional garden layout. It’s amazing the garden you can create by using containers. In this article, we are going to talk about using buckets as containers for your garden.
Using buckets (and other similar containers) can solve your typical gardening problems such as young plants getting trampled, rabbits eating your plants, poor soil, hard rains, weeds taking over your garden, and ease of daily care in general. Also, you can arrange your plants throughout the day for the plants that require full sun or for the plants that need partial shade. Many vegetables can actually thrive in buckets. The most common sized bucket that most gardeners use is 5 gallons.

How to Begin Your Garden Using 5 Gallon Buckets

Start by finding a 5 gallon bucket. Make sure it is clean and food grade, meaning there’s never been any nasty chemicals stored or shipped in your container. Usually you can acquire these by visiting your local bakery, or even a trip to the hardware store will lead you to a simple 5-gallon bucket. Generally they can be purchased at your big-box hardware stores for around $2.50 each.
(Information courtesy of urbanorganicgardener.com)
Here are my top five plants you can grow in buckets:

1. Tomatoes

For best results, especially in climates that are a little cooler, try starting your tomato plant indoors 6-8 weeks before your last average frost date. Tomatoes do well with transplanting and rarely experience “shock” once they are moved from their indoor locations out into their permanent home in the garden.
Add your nutrient dense soil into your 5 gallon bucket. Dig a hole deep enough for you to plant your seedlings and then add a small amount of vegetable or tomato plant food at the bottom of each hole. Give the soil a light water with a watering can.
Click here to read more on how to grow the perfect tomato plant using a 5 gallon bucket, or check out the video below.

2. Cucumbers

Here’s what you’ll need:

5 gallon bucket

Dish soap

Drill

½ inch drill bit

Well draining potting soil

Vegetable fertilizer

2 blocks

Click here for the full tutorial on how to grow a cucumber plant in a 5 gallon bucket. The video below is another great example.

3. Onions

Growing onions in container gardens is much like growing onions in the ground. You need good soil, adequate drainage, good fertilizer and plenty of light.
You can grow onions in 5 gallon buckets, but realize that you may only be able to grow 3 or 4 onions per bucket as onions need at least 3 inches open soil around them to grow properly.
Click here to read more on how you can have the perfect onion crop using 5 gallon buckets, and check out the video below for more tips.

4. Potatoes

If you had to, you could live on almost nothing but potatoes. That’s made them one of the most important crops in human history. Entire civilizations would not have existed without them. And you can grow this powerful food crop in a 5 gallon bucket.
When growing potatoes in buckets, start with a couple inches of growing medium (compost works great) and build up the soil level as the season progresses. Here’s a great video by Mel Bartholomew explaining how he grows potatoes in buckets.
Click here to read more on how to grow a potato crop using 5 gallon buckets.

5. Pearl Oyster Mushrooms (Edible)

The process for growing mushrooms is pretty easy. But it does vary depending on the type of mushroom you are growing. This tutorial will show you a typical and easy way to grow Pearl Oyster Mushrooms (Pleurotus ostreatus).
You will need:

Some kind of bucket or container – Typically a 5 gallon plastic pail is used. In this tutorial a 2 gallon plastic pail is used.

Lots of coffee grounds – about half a bucket full – whatever the size of your bucket

Mushroom Spore

Some plastic wrap (optional but good)

Spray bottle to mist your mushrooms daily

Click here for the full tutorial on how to grow Pearl Oyster Mushrooms using a 2 gallon bucket, and check out the video below for more tips.
If you’ve had great success growing plants in buckets, please share your story in the comment section below!

Many city and apartment dwellers think that growing their own food isn’t a possibility in a rented home with limited yard space, but this is simply not true. If you’re willing to get a little creative, there are plenty of options for growing your own herbs, fruits and vegetables even in limited space — and yes, even if you don’t have a yard

6 Ways to Survive in a Fight

Improve Your Self Defense Skills with These 6 Tips

Survival situations are not limited to natural disasters or other SHTF scenarios; they can also involve attacks by your fellow human beings. People may become desperate when they run out of supplies in the aftermath of a disruptive event. Come to think of it, even in the here and now there are members of society who want your valuables or are simply there to take you out.
Your self-defense skills are also your survival skills, especially when you are cornered. It wouldn’t matter what the attackers motives are. You will need to be very alert and your reflexes should be in the best state possible. Take these tips from Doug Marcaida via Funker Tactical, listed down for your convenience as they’re not indicated in the description.

Assume they’re carrying a weapon
Your knife is meant to be felt, not seen.
Use deception to close to distance.
Do not play the MMA game in a life or death situation.
When weapons are involved, fight dirty.
Do not fight unless you have to.

Check out the video below to learn more.

Want more self defense tips? Check out the Don’t Be a Victim series from our friends at Gun Carrier.

A Complete Guide To SHTF Water Filters

A point of constant confusion and consternation is choosing the right SHTF water filter for your situation. We’ve written several articles and even made a video on the subject, yet questions persist. To remedy this, we’ve decided to list a number of “Tin Hat Approved” SHTF water filters, how they work, and how they are intended to be used.
First, we must define a “SHTF Water Filter”. There are tons and tons of filters on the market, but what sets apart SHTF water filters from others are the following criteria:

They must separate the “dirty” side from the “clean” side. Some popular pitcher type filters may actually work in a pinch, but you don’t want to have the chance of accidentally mixing clean water with contaminated water. These types of filters are designed to remove trace amounts of contaminates in sanitary conditions.
They must not use electricity
The must not rely on water pressure to function, there may not be any!
They must be designed to handle turbid water. Again, lots of the commercial filters are not designed to handle filthy water. They would quickly clog up if tasked with cleaning lake or river water.

We recommend that you don’t choose a filter solely on how many gallons they are rated by the manufacturer to filter, this is only a snapshot of the story. Remember, at a minimum a person needs a half a gallon of water per day per person. If you find a filter rated for “only” 250 gallons, you have to keep in mind it could provide up to 500 days of clean drinking water. While 250 gallons may not be the best choice for long term water filtering, it should be more than enough to get you from point “A” to point “B” during a bug out. You’ve got other problems if you are on the run for 500 days. Instead, chose the filter that best meets your water conditions and preferred method of use. Keep in mind, using an incorrect water filter in the wrong situation can injure or kill you. Howso? If you drink from a chemically polluted water source, certain filters will let the chemicals pass through. Depending on the levels, you may slowly poison or possibly immediately incapacitate yourself. This doesn’t mean that these filters are bad, you just need to know which ones to use when.

Personal or Bug Out Bag Filters

Sawyer Mini ($20, hollow fiber filter, 100,000 gallons) The stalwart of water filters marketed towards personal emergency preparedness, the Sawyer Mini is the choice of many preppers. These filter use hollow fiber technology, meaning they can be back-washed and are rated for up to 100,000 gallons. These filters are very small and weigh 2 oz. They can be used inline to a hydration bladder or bucket system. Our recommendation is that you ONLY use these filters with known water. Known water? This means you are positive that the water you will be filtering does not contain harmful chemicals including industrial, pharmaceutical, or agricultural runoff, heavy metals or radioactive particles. The reason? hollow fiber filters are designed to remove bacteria and protozoa. These are great if you plan to use them in pristine wilderness or with your SHTF water source that is known to be free of the aforementioned.

Lifestraw Personal Water Filter ($20, hollow fiber filter, 264 Gallons)- Just like the name implies, the Lifestraw is a hollow fiber filter that is designed to be used like a straw. Just dip it into water and start sucking. While this design simplifies use on the run, for instance using it is quicker to use than the Sawyer, it limits the modes in which it can be used. You won’t be attaching it to a bucket or in line with a hydration bladder. Nonetheless, it is still a great filter for a bug out bag, if you know of clean water sources along your route. Just like the Sawyer, this filter is limited to use with known water.

Renovo ($33, hollow fiber/acitvated carbon, 250 gallons) A few dollars more will generally purchase more capabilities, and this is true with the Renovo. The extra few dollars ads an activated carbon filter. The activated carbon allows the Renovo to remove harmful chemicals, heavy metals, radioactive particles, and even some viruses. This filter is of a newer design than others on the market and allows for mounting inline with a hydration bladder, use as a straw, or screws directly to a bottle top. In addition, all of the filter elements in the Renovo are replaceable. If your bug out route includes water with unknown composition or if you know you will be drinking from farmers ponds or industrial rivers, the Renovo might be the right choice for a compact personal filter.

Katadyn Vario ($76, Pleated Glass/Ceramic, 500 gallons) Rounding out our list of personal or bug out bag flilters is the Katadyn. This is the most expensive, largest, and heaviest of the pack, but with the bulk, weight, and price come additional features. The Katadyn uses a selectable dual filtration system, pleated glass for “normal” water (water you know) and ceramic for for unknown water that could contain chemicals, run-off, etc. The feature we like about the Vario is you may pump water into containers. In fact, the Vario is threaded to fit a standard Nalgene bottle. Any experienced hiker will attest, being able to pump clean water into a container greatly simplifies the process. You don’t need to fill your hydration bladder with dirty water to filter it, you filter the water and add clean water into the hydration bladder.

Family and Stationary Water Filters

Lifestraw Family ($76, Hollow Fiber, 4755 Gallons) Taking the same technology as in their personal water filter and expanding it yields the Lifestraw Family. This is a great family filter if you have a nearby lake or stream that is free from chemicals and pollutants. Remember, hollow fiber filters do not remove chemicals. This large capacity filter is very easy to use, that is why we like it. It has a built in mechanism to make back washing easy. The larger size allows for a pre-filter yet it isn’t large enough that it couldn’t be used on the run. The only downside to this gravity fed filter is the flow rate, 9-12 liters per hour. To use this filter, simply pour dirty water in the top and take it out of the bottom via the blue tap.

Berkey “Big Berkey ($350, Carbon/Proprietary, 3,000 Gallons) What happens when you have a large family, aren’t sure about your SHTF water source, and need a filter that will support their needs in SHTF? The Berkey might be the answer. While the most expensive, this is the only “filter” on the list that can be listed as a water purifier, going far and above the requirements for water filtering. It will remove bacteria, protozoa, chemicals, heavy metals, and a whole slew of other contaminants. The unique design of the Black Berkey cartridges allow for easy cleaning and extended use (6,000 man days of drinking water). Being a gravity filter, using the Berkey is very simple, pour the dirty water in the top and take the clean water out of the spigot. The only downside is you probably have to also stock up on the filters for extended SHTF use.

Clawhammer Supply “Water” Stills ($149-374, Distilling, ??? Gallons)- This is probably the most interesting entry into our “complete guide to SHTF water filters”. Distilled water can be one of the purest forms of drinking water. None of the other entries can handle salt water, distilling can. Distilling will leave chemicals and heavy metals behind. There are no filter media to worry about, no back washing, and you need only to provide heat. Using the Clawhammer will be a bit more involved that other methods as you must find a heat source and use it to turn the water from a liquid to a gas. The gas then condenses as pure water. Other than the ability to supply clean drinking water, the Clawhammer can provide alcohol fuel to power small engines, tractors, and even cars. It can also do other things, which we won’t mention here. They come in 1 gallon, 5 gallon, and 10 gallon capacities. Look for some reviews and videos in the near future on the Clawhammer.

Specialty Filters

RAD Clearly Filtered ($30, Radiological Filtration Media, 25 Gallons)– While some of the above filters can probably remove radiological contaminants the RAD is specifically designed to do so, to the tune of 99.99%. I call this a “specialty” filter because of its specific purpose. The 25 gallon capacity will give you 50 man days of drinking water in an emergency, hopefully long enough to get you to a safe area of operations. To operate the filter, unscrew the caps and insert into water and use like a straw.

Seychelle Radiological Purification Bottle ($49, Carbon impregnated microfilter, 100 Gallons) Similar to the RAD, the Seychelle uses a proprietary carbon impregnated microfilter to filter up to 100 gallons of radiologically contaminated water. The carbon impregnated filter is like a hollow fiber filter with active carbon added to catch very small particles. The good news is the filter will catch almost anything, the bad news is once it is used, it is done. To use, fill up the bottle with contaminated water, screw on the filter cap, and enjoy your filtered water.
Clean water is a must in a SHTF scenario, you don’t want to be facing outside threats at the same time you are dealing with Montezuma’s revenge. We recommend that you have a portable source with you at all times and a method for long term filtering. Remember, if you know your water source and it is free from the aforementioned chemical contaminants, you can always boil it.

How to Make a Rain Barrel

This is a first for The New Me - a guest post, written by my very own Nathan! If you've ever thought about building a rain barrel for your garden, look no further. Nathan provides clear instructions and lots of lovely photos (which were taken by yours truly. Teamwork!).

Take it away, Nathan!

Rain barrels collect rainfall and store it, so that it can be used later. There are 3 main components - The roof, the barrel, and the hose. These are not always a roof, barrel, and hose, but those functions will be present in almost every system (collection, storage, and output). A very common setup is to place barrels under gutters and fill watering cans with the water as needed. Our system will use a small awning as our roof (our gardens and barrels are located a bit away from the house), a barrel for each garden bed, and a soaker hose that runs into each bed from the barrel. Here's how we made the barrels.

Step 1. Procure the barrels. The most important thing about the barrels is that they hold water, and they never held anything bad. In Texas we could get 55 gallon blue plastic barrels from the Coca-cola bottling plant - they were used to transport soda syrup. Up here in North Carolina we got them from an independent farm supply store, and they were used originally to ship pickled cucumbers from Asia to America. Prices vary but I think more than $20 sounds high. Again, never ever ever use a barrel that previously contained anything toxic or even questionable. There are plenty of used food-material barrels if you look hard enough. When in doubt, assume the worst.

Step 2. Procure the pieces. There are probably tens of different ways to put a faucet into the bottom of a barrel, but I went to Lowe's and got this stuff and it has worked fine. What we have here is a faucet (~$6) that will accept a typical garden hose, some plastic plumbing fitting (~$1) that is threaded inside and will mate with the faucet (faucet outside the barrel, unknown plastic fitting inside the barrel), and a 4 inch x 4 inch piece of thick rubber (~$3) to be used to make gaskets to improve the seal.

Step 3. Make the gasket(s). Trace the diameter of your faucet's threads onto the rubber. Next, drill out the hole for the gasket. Select a drill bit that is close to the size of your faucet's threads. It's better to go smaller than larger due to the fact that you're improving the seal and it's rubber. My faucet came out to be 3/4"and the 3/4" hole is snug on the threads.

Step 4. Drill a hole in the bottom of the barrel to receive the faucet. This should be the same diameter as the hole you drilled in the gasket. Obviously you want to drill as close to the bottom of the barrel as possible, without compromising the bottom of the barrel. Plastic drills easily so hold the drill firmly to get a clean hole. Do not wiggle the bit around as this hole needs to be crisp and tight.

Step 5. Screw on the faucet. Since your hole is exactly the same size as your faucet's threads, it should be a little difficult to get the faucet going. Remember to keep the faucet perpendicular to the wall of the barrel, and that the plastic is going to yield to the metal. Push firmly while you twist, keeping the faucet in the same orientation the entire time so you don't end up widening the hole. Screw the faucet in all the way, stopping when it is in the correct orientation. Don't go further and then back out to straighten; this will result in a drippy faucet.

Step 6. Get in the barrel. Screw on the gasket and the plastic fitting.

Step 7. Install screen to keep out mosquitoes. Mosquitoes breed in standing water and that's what rain barrels do, so screen is essential. Our barrels have threaded rings at the top to retain a lid (sort of like a giant mason jar). We tossed the lid but kept the ring and just laid screen across the top of the barrel before screwing the ring on. Make sure the screen is tight.

Step 8. Elevate! Just as water towers are elevated to increase pressure so that the water will come out of your tap (without energy-intensive pumping), the rain barrels will deliver better if they are elevated to increase pressure. Ours are going to have soaker hoses running down and through the garden beds. We'll be able to turn on the faucet for about 20 minutes and the gardens will be watered to perfection.

We still need to build the awning that will drain into the barrels (increasing the surface area will collect more water), but now we don't have to worry about mosquitoes, and we know they work!

Thanks, Nathan! If you have any questions about rain barrels, soaker hoses, or how to get out of an old pickle jar, feel free to leave them in the comments.

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My Favorite Long Distance Rifle Cartridges

Joshua Gillem , March 29, 2016 / 9298 21

One of the requirements to become a United States Marine (when I was in, it may have changed by now) was to shoot at 200, 300 and 500 yards. Basically, there were three different levels of qualification based on the score you got: marksman, sharpshooter and expert rifleman. We used the steel sights that came on our M16s which were chambered in 5.56 NATO. I used to think that this was an awesome round suited for long distance shooting. That is, until I realized that it wasn’t the best one available. So what are the best long distance rifle cartridges? Here is my version of the best:

6.5 Creedmoor

This is a newer addition to the long distance shooting cartridges that demands the attention of anyone looking to get into this sport, or someone who is already in this sport and looking for another option. The 6.5mm family of cartridges is one of the most accurate and flattest shooting available on the market. Unfortunately, they are also one of the most expensive of the smaller sized match grade rounds, coming in at over a dollar per unit.
Their accuracy comes from a relatively small projectile between 120-140 grains. This bullet is capable of bucking the wind due to its aerodynamics and velocity. This is a newer round that is essentially the same as a .260 with a few small differences to help it push the accuracy envelope.

.308 Winchester

This workhorse is tried and true. It has been tested for many years, and is known as an accurate heavy hitter that is capable of going the distance (literally). This is an affordable round that is also readily available. In fact, these rounds can be found starting at 60 cents per cartridge, to well over $2.00 depending on the quantity and grain size of the projectile.
These rounds are deadly accurate out to about 1,000 yards, and are decent at bucking the wind to help aid in accuracy. Grain sizes usually range from 145-180, and just about everything in between.

.300 RUM

When you want to shoot something powerful, with a fast moving bullet, the .300 Remington Ultra Magnum is a great choice. The superior velocity of the projectile means that it drops slower than other bullets (because it covers a greater distance in a shorter amount of time). Thus, this projectile is very accurate out at very long distances.
Furthermore, this is a magnum load making it powerful enough to take that moose or grizzly bear you’ve been thinking about. These rounds are expensive, and can cost as much as $4.00 per round. However, if long distance shooting or hunting is a serious endeavor for you, you can’t go wrong with this cartridge.

.338 Lapua

Some people have stated that the longest confirmed sniper kill at 2,400+ yards was done with a .338 Lapua. The pros have estimated that the bullet was traveling somewhere in the neighborhood of 850-900 feet per second when it reached the poor sap on the receiving end. Considering that it had just flown for 1.5 miles, that ain’t bad! When you’ve just gotta reach out and touch something, you can’t go wrong with a Lapua Magnum.

.338 Lapua Magnum

.50 BMG

Because, why not? Listen, in all honestly, if you’ve never fired one, you need to put it on your bucket list. This is a great option if you need to put down a Tyrannosaurus Rex or punch a hole in a light armored vehicle out at 2,000 yards. Bullet size starts at a tremendous 600 grains and go up from there depending on how big your dinosaur is.
The guns are big, heavy and expensive. Each time you apply steady pressure to the trigger a 5 dollar bill comes flying out of the pipe at over 2,700 feet per second. But hey, you only live once, right?
It should go without saying that there are a lot more long distance cartridges that could be on this list. If I were to list all of them, I’d likely run out of room so don’t hold it against me. What is your favorite long distance rifle cartridge? Sound Off!

Living off grid often means living in rural areas with little or no utilities available, we are left to fend for ourselves, which is typically the goal anyhow and not a problem. One of the biggest things the rural off gridder needs to take care of is human waste disposal. There are a few options, one is the Joseph Jenkins Humanure method of composting the waste material, that works very well but not everyone is on board for handling their own poo and waste products, and having company over can create its own set of challenges. If you have sufficient water resources, you may want to have a regular flush toilet, something unassuming and un-intimidating for you, your family and friends who may come visit.
For that you may choose to install a septic system. Typically that costs a LOT of money, is highly regulated (and for good reason!), but if you are careful and considerate, you can create a small septic system that will handle a small cabin or trailer for one or two people. This will probably be illegal in most areas, and if you are caught, may result in hefty fines and require the removal of the illegal system and possibly a cleanup of the area… don’t be ignorant of where you may put this, don’t put it in a place where it could contaminate ground water or any other bodies of water. In fact you probably shouldn’t even do it, BUT if you do choose to do this, or just want to know how, here are some instructions as to how you theoretically could do it. No one at or associated with this site will be held responsible for any actions taken by the visitors here as a result of reading this article.

How to Construct a Small Septic System

Most private septic systems are made up of two parts: The holding and digesting tanks and the dispersal field. The system shown here is a small system, designed for limited use of by two people with no laundry and a small travel trailer. The concept is not the same as a larger system. The tank is much smaller than required and the design is missing some important items such as internal baffles and a qualified site assessment. This system uses two 55 gallon drums, as opposed to the 1000 to 2000 gallon tanks used for a standard home septic system. The system we are creating here also has a dispersal field about one third that of a large home.
Property owners planning a system similar to this one should be aware that this system would not pass muster with any public health department in the USA and could subject the owner to a hefty fine if the system was discovered in use.

Dig a ditch 4 feet wide, 26 feet long, and 3 feet deep.

Assemble all the supplies, parts, and equipment. See the “Things You’ll Need” list below.

Cut a hole in the top of each drum the size of the toilet flange pipe outside measurement. It should be near the edge. A saber saw is best for this task.

4. Attach a 4″ toilet flange to each hole.

Cut two holes in the top side of the lower drum, as shown in the photo, 45 degrees away from a perpendicular line drawn from the hole on top to the far side.

Cut one hole in the upper drum opposite the hole in the top, as shown in the photo.

Place the drum with one hole in the side at the end of the trench. Level the drum. The top of the drum should be at least 4 inches below grade.

Dig a hole about one foot deeper for the placement of the second drum in front of the first.

Dig the hole mentioned in step 8 a little deeper and fill with gravel until the 90 ell fits perfectly from the hole in the side of the top drum to the toilet flange of the lower drum.

Cut a 3 1/2″ piece of 4″ ABS pipe (nipple) and glue it into one end of the 90 ell. Cut another nipple about 2 1/2″ long and glue it in the other end.

Test the fit for alignment between the two drums. The end with the short nipple should go into the upper drum. It should look like the photo in Step 9.

When you are sure about the fit, glue the end of the 3 1/2″ nipple into the toilet flange. We will deal with sealing the connection to the upper drum later.

Glue a “Y” to 3 1/2 nipples and add a 45 degree bend to the left side of the “Y”. Align the “Y” to meet the incoming waste line, and glue it into the toilet flange.

Cut and glue (2) 2 1/2″ nipples to the remaining two 45 degree bends at one end only and insert into holes in the side of the lower drum, as shown in the photo in step 7. The face of the two 45 degree bends should be perpendicular to the trench.

See photo in Step 7

Pound a stake into the ground so that the top of the stake is level with the bottom of the 45 degree bend coming out of one side of the bottom drum.

Tape a 1″ wide block to the end of a 4 foot level, as shown in the photo to the right.

Start the second stake a little less than 4 feet down the trench from the first.

Lay the end of the level without the block on the first stake and the block on the second. Pound the stake down until the level shows level when the block is on the second stake. The second stake is now 1″ lower than the first, or 1/4″ per foot.

Repeat this process until you have stakes the length of the trench.

Place the gravel in the trench until the top of the gravel is equal with the top of the stakes.

The gravel should now slope away from the drums at 1/4″ to the foot.

Place two pieces of 10 foot 4″ perforated drain pipe connected with a slip coupler (holes down). Slide one end into the 45 degree bend of the lower drum. Repeat on the other side.

Check the drain pipes with the level and block to see if the 1/4″ grade is consistent along the length of the pipe. Adjust by adding or removing gravel under the pipe.

Seal the 45 degree bends and the 90 degree bend to the lower and upper drums, respectively. Try a two part epoxy. You could also use silicon caulk. See the photo in step 6 for finished view of epoxy. Consider using flex pipe for this, so that if the ground shifts it will give a little.

Bury the trench to the top of the bottom drum with the remaining gravel.

Lay landscape fabric over the gravel. This will prevent the soil from seeping into the gravel.

Fill the remaining trench area with soil, compacting well to the original grade.

Fill the upper drum with water.

Tips

The digestive tanks are made of two plastic 55 gallon drums. The waste fills the first tank, with the solids falling to the bottom. When the liquid reaches the level of the outfall to the second tank, it drains into it. If any solids are there, they fall to the bottom. When the liquid from the second tank reaches the two outfalls, it travels to the gravel leaching field for dispersal. Most of the solids will liquefy over time and be dispersed. After a couple of years, the solids may come to the top of the tank, and the tank will have to be pumped out.
After a while, you may see settlement where the trench was. Fill with more soil and compact with wheel of your car. Don’t drive over the area that contains the drums.
It is presumed that you know how to work with plastic ABS pipe. You must also have equipment to dig the trench (or be willing to get a lot of exercise).
The depth of the trench is relative to the depth of the waste source line. If the line is deeper or higher than the one shown, you will have to dig the trench deeper or shallower to accommodate that depth. It’s not that hard to figure. (Note: If you have too shallow of a trench, your septic system could be damaged easier.)
The vertical side of the “Y” will be used to pump out the tank when it is completely fill with solids.
The horizontal side of the “Y” connects to the waste source, and should be fitted with a connector that fits the source supply line.

Warnings

Local Septic Regulations should be followed when constructing a septic system. It is illegal to install a septic system with no permit, the permit will detail the local requirements for installation of a septic system.
Don’t locate your septic system too close to trees, as tree roots will grow into your line, and cause them to clog (with roots) and with time, cause harm to your system.
This is a very small capacity system. This is not designed to meet the needs of a large household. It is designed for a small travel trailer and two people.
Depending on use, you may have to pump the upper drum once a year. The system shown here has been pumped twice in five years.

Things You’ll Need

(9) cubic yards of 3/4 or 1 1/2 crushed rock or blue metal
(80) square feet of landscape fabric
(2) 55 gallon plastic drums
(10) ft of 4″ ABS plastic pipe
(1) 4″ ABS 90 degree bend (sometimes called a street Ell)
(1) 4″ ABS Y branch (sometimes called a Y bend)
(3) 4″ ABS 45 degree bend
(4) 10 ft. length of 4″ perforated drain pipe
(2) 4″ drain pipe couplers
(2) 4″ toilet flanges
(1) 4′ Level
(10) Wood Stakes
(1) Set of PVC glue
(1) Two part epoxy or silicon sealant
(1) 1″ thick wood block
(1) Duct tape
(1) 4″ ABS removable cap for pump out when needed

Original article can be found here:
http://www.wikihow.com/Construct-a-Small-Septic-System